A SoHo staple for years, The Dutch is reliable for many things. Among them: champagne and fries.
We stopped in without a reservation around dinnertime on a weekday night, and while it was a bit crowded, we got bar seating for two within a few seconds. Strangely, I also wasn't that hungry. So even though I want to go back for more apps in the future (namely the eggplant dip and honey bruschetta both looked great), I really did just settle for fries.
The fries themselves were great and I'd order again. Pretty much exactly what you'd expect and hope for. The sparkling wine was also good but I seemed to gulp it down quickly. Also, it was incredibly humid out, and I have trouble drinking a lot of carbonation in extreme heat—even while indoors with AC. So I moved to rosé shortly thereafter.
After ordering, the server brought out not one but TWO kinds of free bread. I actually caught myself saying out loud that I couldn't remember the last time I received free bread at a restaurant. It's really disappearing, for better or worse. I have to say though that the brown bread was much better in flavor and texture. The cornbread was nice in theory, but incredibly crumbly. I felt very crummy after eating.
The real star of the show was the dessert, which I hadn't even asked for or wanted. And yet I don't regret it. While billed as an "ice cream sandwich," the presentation is more like "ice cream sandwich, deconstructed" as if this were a Top Chef quick challenge. Nevertheless, it was tasty, and frankly, I wanted all of The Dutch's dessert offerings. So I will definitely be back.