If the interiors feel familiar, they're done by the same designers who do many London hotel bars, such as those at The Berkeley and The Savoy. The menu's theme is "pan-Asian," which I admit I was resistant to only because it's a bit of a tired, hodgepodge concept often done without real heart or respect.
There's definitely an effort here—even a few dishes I'd come back for—namely the "crispy chickpea fritters," which at first glance look like simple egg rolls but really taste more like samosas. They didn't even need the turmeric aioli they arrived with.
There's also an extensive wine and cocktail list, the latter of which has a number of names inspired by the new pre-fab neighborhood. Of course, we had champagne and fries.
The astronomically marked-up Piper-Heidsieck Brut Cuvée 1785 was a great opener, and we relied on the server for his pairing recommendations the rest of the evening. (Be sure to ask! They know their stuff.)
Normally I wouldn't bother with fries on a menu as extensive and veggie-friendly as this, but they were still quite good, if not a bit small. Next time I'd get an order of fries just for me.
The dessert course was a bit of a roller-coaster. Strangely enough, the two I picked were my least favorites, almost equally. The coconut rice pudding, once you get to it, is satisfactory, but it’s covered in a firm—and very tart—lemon glaze. And the only coconut is really those flakes on top, without a hint of it (unfortunately) in the rice pudding itself.
The black truffle brie was fine—that’s it—fine. It came with a yummy little apple tarte tatin on the side for pairing, but really one bite of the tart, and it’s gone. And the brie is so strong you need some kind of canvas to go with it, and there’s no bread to speak of, so you’re stuck.
Truly, as with the wine list, the servers know best here. Normally I’d never order pineapple upside down cake for dessert. It’s beyond basic on its own. It was basic when I was 10. But this one was delicious, made even more delightful with the scoop of ginger ice cream on the side. If you get one dessert, make it this one.